This week we arrive in Austria.

Our first destination is the city of Salzburg. The birthplace of one Mozart and home to the Von Trapp family….. if you believe the film.

First though, we have a little trek across southern Germany. Not rushing, we take a stop at a lake close by our route. However, reaching Salzburg the next day takes longer than we expect.

Austria has a complicated toll system for vehicles over 3.5 tons using it’s motorway network. Last time round, we found ourselves playing ‘Go-Box Roulette’. Driving in fear that the next beep from the dash mounted unit might signal a big fine.

This time we decided to take the roads less travelled – non toll roads. Whilst this would lead to a breath taking drive along the Danube, right now it meant a 50km detour north of Salzburg.

Salzburg

Salzburg is the fourth largest city in Austria. Although it isn’t huge, it’s the biggest place we’ve visited for a while. Negotiating the city traffic, the commuters, and tourists takes us a minute to get used to.

Public transport in Austria seems to have evolved since we were last here in Innsbruck in 2023. Then we were confused and nearly caught out as it was only possible to pay the bus drivers in cash.

Now it seems each city has a transport app and tickets can only be brought digitally.

No less confused, we eventually sort a 3 day travel card each. As Merlin hasn’t got a phone, she rides for free.

Our destination is the Alt Stadt where we make our first impressions of the city.

Salzburg old town is tucked under the cliffs of the Festungsburg mountain, topped with a huge castle. The cities grand, ornate and colourful buildings are divided by the clear blue Salzach river. It’s really busy with traffic, people. and bikes. The latter has us on alert, eyes scanning every direction as we cross the roads. They’re silent and all seem to approach at breakneck speed with no intention of stopping. Of course there’s lots of tourists but plenty of locals too. The city is definitely bustling and has a great feel.

We stop for a beer and wine in Mozartplatz to watch the horse drawn carriages pass-by. Sure it’s a bit twee but somehow it works here. Safe to say we like Salzburg.

Berchtesgaden and the Eagles Nest

Regular readers might remember that we’ve been following in the footsteps of the Band of Brothers for a few years. In 2022, we visited where they parachuted into Normandy. Last year we experienced Bastogne and the woods overlooking the town of Foy. This year we’ve made it to another location on my bucket list, The Eagles Nest or Kehlsteinhaus as it’s locally known.

Legend has it that the 101st Airborne were the first to enter Obersalzburg and take the road up to the Eagles nest. Whether that’s true or not, it’s a spectacular site to experience. For me, the history associated makes it more incredible.

Our campsite is at Allweglehen and it’s a cracker.

It’s one of those amazing places that you unexpectedly come across when you’re on the road. We instantly decide to extend our stay.

After settling in, we decide to get out to visit the Eagles Nest the next day. This turns out to be a good decision. Opting to leave Merlin at home, we take the super scooter up to Obersalzburg.

It’s quite a trip as the gradient of the road up from Berchtesgaden is 24%!

Our little scooter struggles and smells pretty bad when we reach the carpark.

From the Documentation Centre, it’s a bus and then lift ride up the 800m to the summit and the Eagles Nest itself. The views are incredible and it’s well worth the trip. As we’ve come up on the first bus, it’s actually pretty quiet and we have a good wander around before it starts to get busier and busier.

Whilst there, we notice that the tables and chairs are being packed away. There’s a storm due in tomorrow and I guess it’ll probably snow up here. It looks like the Eagles Nest won’t be open much longer this year.

Our campsite boasts a small and seemingly ever popular restaurant. I’d been keen to have Zwiebelrostbraten, a dish I used to love when I worked in Germany years ago, and it just so happens it was on the menu here. It’d be rude not to have a try.

We hadn’t realised how busy the restaurant would be and a lovely chap kindly gave us his table as we arrived. We were served a brilliant meal, for some reason we seem to make a habit of finding amazing steak dinners for Sally’s birthday.

The road to Vienna

The night is stormy. The wind rocks us from side to side and rain hammers loudly on the roof all night. We wake to find the trees have lost most of their leaves around us and that snow has indeed fallen in the high alpine.

It’s a sign for us to be on our way.

Today we’re back into Austria and beginning our route up to the Danube on the non-toll roads. Then we simply follow the river as far as Vienna.

Our first nights stop is supposed to be easy but somehow school holidays and last nights strong wind cause us problems. After parking up we then get moved out by the owner and finally blocked in by an RV. Altogether too much hassle.

Once we negotiate Linz the road alongside the Danube is a brilliant drive.

We find a campsite for the next couple of nights and it couldn’t be better. It’s the last couple of days of their season so it’s quiet and we pitch up right by the river. There’s even a cute little pizza place nearby.

Next stop Vienna.

Thanks for following along with us,

Love Sally, Toby and Merlin