This week we’re tackling the unusually named ‘Romantic Road’ in Bavaria.
We heard about this route from our friends travelled this way last year. Not quite sure what to expect, we did some internetting to see what we were letting ourselves in for.
In medieval times the road was a trade route although today it’s much more of a tourist thing.
It turns out that the ‘romantic’ theme comes not from activities that occur on the road but rather relate to the idyllic, almost stereotypical German towns on the route.
Officially, the route starts in Wurzburg and heads south as far as Fussen.
As we’ve got a bit of trek across from our last stop over, we decide to start our journey at the second main stop in ‘Rothenburg ob der Taub’ instead.
Finding the road turned out to be pretty straightforward but we found that staying on it was more of a challenge. There are some signs proudly declaring you’re on the route but they’re absent when you need to make key turns. In the end, we turned to an excellent article from the Gap Decaders which has a definitive guide.
Rothenburg
We found Christmas.
In a town.
I know. It’s a bit early but we get the feeling that it’s Christmas here all year round.
Rothenburg is one of few remaining walled towns in Germany (they’re all on this route) and in our view it’s the best.
Everything is so perfect and Christmassy that it could almost be a theme park.
Being here in Autumn is amazing although we imagine it would be really special in Winter, with snow on the ground.
We were both amazed by how beautiful and well looked after the town is and, unsurprisingly, how many tourists there are.
The next morning, we sneak in early for a quiet look around, to get some photos, and grab some breakfast out. Coffee’s are accompanied with a local pastry speciality, the ‘Schneeball’.
After watching the shops lazily begin to open their doors for the day, we’re heading off to our next destination.
Dinkelsbuhl and Nordlingen
We slowly wind our way the few kilometers down the road to Dinklesbuhl. The Stellplatz is easy to reach here and just out of town.
We find a Beatrix sized place to stop, plug into some electric to recharge tired batteries and take a walk into town to see what’s what.
The town is of course beautiful and, unexpectedly to us, it’s quite a bit bigger than Rothenburg. It’s got the cobbled streets, traditional buildings and colourful roof tops but somehow it just doesn’t feel as magical as Rothenburg.
Perhaps we’ve been spoilt by seeing the best first.
By the time we get back to Beatrix, the Stellplatz is pretty much full up. Glad we arrived when we did.
Next day, the next stop on Romantische Strasse for us is the town of Nordlingen, an hour or so south.
This is the third of the walled towns we’re visiting. It is also beautiful, has it’s own different character and yet is still slightly underwhelming compared to our first experience.
As with Dinkelsbuhl, we check out the town centre but find the more interesting road less travelled is actually around the inside of the fortified wall.
What’s the German for fridge? Der Kühlshrank?
Returning to Beatrix, we discover all is not well.
The fridge has stopped cooling and the freezer has completely defrosted…… with the last of the bacon in it. Changing from electric to gas made no difference. It was kaputt.
After a team meeting, held with impromptu bacon sarnies, we find half a dozen or so motorhome repair places nearby. It’s time to deploy the German speaking Sally to see what she can sort.
In the end, we find a really helpful shop near Augsburg, which was our next stop anyway, who agree to have a look at it for us.
The verdict is not good.
The fridge has indeed deceased and can’t be repaired. Sadly they’re too busy to find and fit a new one for us. In the end our best option is to trek out towards a huge motorhome dealer near Munich, Der Freistaat Caravanning and More.
Unwittingly, we arrive during their annual sales week. The place is absolutely packed with motorhomes, shoppers and it seems gormless wally’s wandering across the roads without looking. Abandoning Beatrix in the chaos and leaving Merlin in charge, we battle through to the shop to find the portable fridges.
We leave with ‘Bert’ our new 40L fridge. A bit like the motorhome, Bert is massive but holds a surprisingly small amount of stuff. Nevertheless, he’s a life-saver for us and means we can head back to the road.
Fussen and Neuschwanstein Castle
After our unplanned diversion, we drive the final stretch of the Romantische Strasse. The end of the road is at Fussen, close to the Germany and Austrian border.
I’ve wanted to come here for ages. It was one of those places I’d seen whilst we were planning our escape so it’s amazing to be here now.
Although the attraction is not Fussen itself, the drive in is amazing. (obviously we forgot the photos again!) The sun is out for our journey today and as we approach the flat green landscape gives way abruptly to the beginning of the Alps. The lakeside drive has stunning views and before we know it we’re pulling into town and our stellplatz.
Really we’re here to see the Neuschwanstein Castle.
Resting on the cliff top like a marble crown, Neuschwanstein Castle embodies the Romantische part of the Romantic road. Built as a palace for the Bavarian King it’s an amazing sight.
The silhouette is pretty iconic. If it seems familiar that might be because it was the inspiration for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty castle. It’s also a massive tourist attraction and even out of season it’s packed with people from all over the world. As we arrive, that catches us out for a bit.
We opt to catch the bus up to castle and then walk down which is the perfect choice for us.
The views from the top, out across Hohenschwangau Castle is a sight to see.
After spending a brilliant few days here, our next stop is Salzburg and Austria.
Thanks for reading and see you next time,
Lots of love from Sally, Toby and Merlin
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