There are about 5 million people living in New Zealand and it turns out that 4 million of those are on the North Island.

With that fact in mind, arriving in Wellington on Saturday evening, was a bit of a culture shock. 4 lane roads, full of traffic, buildings taller than a single storey and crowds of people out on the streets and in the bars.

Fearing we may have misjudged Wellington, we wonder if there’ll be any space for us at the freedom camping spot we’d picked?

Wellington

Our journey across the infamous Cook Strait was too windy to enjoy on deck but thankfully the sea was calm.

The route out of the South Island through the Queen Charlotte Sound was beautiful and gave us our last chance to admire the South Island landscapes. It didn’t last long though as the ferry captain charged on at breakneck speed.

Ducking and diving Bernhardt through the busy city centre, we reach the esplanade road and follow it around the coast to the Island Bay area.

Predictably, there’s no room at the inn.

The freedom parking area is pretty large but is overflowing with vans rammed in every space. They’re also lining the roads either side of the parking area despite the warnings of a $400 fine.

We opt to head out of town to a campsite.

On Sunday morning we’re back into Wellington for coffee. Finding a good spot overlooking the harbour, and just past the cute weekend market, we enjoy breakfast outdoors in the sunshine.

Paraparamu

We can’t stay long though. We’re meeting old friends in Paraparamu, north up the coast.

Lee recommended the Waterfront Beach bar to meet and it’s a great choice.

We had an amazing meal and then a wander along the waterfront. Its been a while since we last saw each other but it seemed like no time had past at all. Brilliant to see you Lee and Emma. Thanks for a wonderful day!

An added benefit of the Waterfront Bar is that it’s also a freedom camping spot. We settled in for the evening and enjoyed the sunset.

Volcano hunting

Next up we’re in search of three famous volcano’s.

Our first destination is Mount Taranaki, which is a dormant volcano on the western side of the island, and is about a 4 hour drive.

This morning, the weather has turned a bit.

As we leave, it’s clouded over and the weather forecast for our time on the north island is starting to look a bit dodgy.

In the end, we make the difficult decision to head down the mountain. I’m really torn about it. What if the clouds clear tonight and we miss this chance to see it. We don’t know when we’ll be back.

In the end, Sally suggests we head out of the cold and clouds to find a beach park up instead. This, it turns out, is an excellent idea and we find another amazing spot.

The next day, we are back on the volcano trail.

Our drive today takes us across country to Tongariro National Park, home of two active volcanos, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe.

I’m filled with disappointment even as we approach the town of Waimarino.

It’s clear that the low cloud has slinked its way across the North Island and there’s no view at all.

That night we’d booked in to stay at the nearby Discovery Lodge camp ground. It’s advertised as having views of both peaks…. when the weather is better. It’s also clearly a base for those intrepid soles who’ve taken on the Crossing judging by the scattered walking boots and exhausted campers we see as we arrive.

Tomorrow’s forecast doesn’t look promising either and we think again about moving on to Taupo but there’s no refunds, so we stay.

Mount Doom

I wake early the next morning, about 5. It’s still dark out and peaking out of the curtains, there’s no way to tell if the cloud is still there or not.

By 6, my curiosity has got the better of me.

I aim to quietly dress and fail as I trip and crash my way through the cramped confines of Bernhardt in the dark.

Opening the door reveals the dawn show is just about to start and to my amazement the sky is completely clear.

Grabbing my camera, I quickly head out to the open lawn at the front of the property. The view’s obscured by trees and then it opens up, I laugh as I realise I’m running.

The sun’s going to rise right behind the two massive volancos now visible in front of me.

I’m amazed to find there’s no one here. Yesterdays walkers must be lying in and today’s have already gone out. I have the moment to myself.

Before we leave Tongariro, we find Gollum’s Pool from the Lord of the Rings films which prompts cries of “My Precious”.

Taupo

Taupo is not pronounced as it looks.

Earlier in the week, Emma told the correct way to say it but needless to say we’d both forgotten and continue to mispronounce it all day.

Our route took us along the shore of Lake Taupo, which is the biggest lake in New Zealand. The drive is amazing.

Being a bit limited for time, we stop for a coffee to decide what we’re going to do. The coffee is excellent and just what we needed to sort out the itinerary.

Sadly, we don’t have time to get out on the lake to see the Mauri carvings. We opt for a walk in the town, a visit to the surprisingly impressive Huka Falls and then on to the famous hot springs.

It’s really busy and the first time we’ve really seen coach loads of tourists.

Thankfully, the spa is much quieter and is a fantastic experience. The water is filled with healthy minerals to help weary travellers minus the sulphur smell. It’s a great way to end the day.

Our next stop is Rotorua but there’s a cyclone due to make landfall tomorrow too. Catch up with us next time to see how we get on.

Thanks for reading,

Sally and Toby