This week we’re heading for the coast. The next destination on our Northumberland tour is to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne.
We’ve found another fabulous little campsite called the Barn at Beale. Just off the A1, it’s a great location right above the causeway out to the island. The elevated position gives amazing views out across the fields to the Holy Island, Bamburgh Castle and the sea beyond.
Thinking back, it’s hard to remember when we last had a sea view. I think we have to stretch back as far as North Norfolk in January which is too long.
Northumberland makes up for it though and as the sun sets, we’re treated to the full show. It’s good to be beside the sea.
Lindisfarne
Lindisfarne’s history stretches deep into Anglo-Saxon times, shaped by centuries of faith, conflict, and visitors. From early Christian monks and revered saints to Viking raiders and Norman builders, each chapter has left its mark on the island.
The island can only be reached via the causeway that floods at high tide. As we wait for the water to recede and the road to reveal itself, we unpack the bikes and start out down the hill.
The causeway itself is quite a short cycle but there’s a stop off point and refuge in the middle. Apparently it’s needed as there are regularly stranded tourists in need of rescue despite the frequent warnings and rather obvious risk. Looking out over the marshes and mudflats as we cycle, it’s easy to imagine the centuries of pilgrims that have crossed here.
Before we realise, we’ve reached the dunes and nature reserve of Lindisfarne.
Sadly for us, we’re not the only ones. Despite it being a random Tuesday in June, we’re quickly overtaken by a constant stream of cars and coaches. It seems that a visit to Lindisfarne is as popular now as it ever was.
As we cycle past a nearby field, the cars stop and spill out their modern-day pilgrims. Unlike the seekers of centuries past, their destination seems less spiritual and more flat white focused — the row of coffee shops are bustling with activity, while the monastery stands more quietly in the background.
We take our chance and have a quick explore. Although ruins now, it seems incredible that the monastery has been home to three saints. No wonder it’s called Holy Island.
Keen Road Less Travellers’ will remember we’d mentioned that we’d see more of Northumbria’s patron saint, Saint Cuthbert. And so it turns out that he was Bishop of Lindisfarne twice and was originally buried here in 687. In 875, his body was moved by monks after repeated viking attacks and eventually he ended up in Durham.
As the masses begin to descend, we again take to the bikes and head up to the castle.
We were given some excellent advice to try and stay on the island through the high tide. As the majority of the buses and cars leave, this gives time to quietly explore the sites and to soak in some of the history of this place. I think that’s great idea and although it wasn’t possible for us to do given the tide times, I would highly recommend it if your trip allows.
The following day, I take a solo ride out along the coast to Bamburgh. A note for next time is that there’s a big coach park by the castle as well as several campsites on the way. We’d easily be able to stay and visit out here next time.
The cycle is 12 miles or so each way and although the route avoids the main road, the views don’t really open up until you come in Bamburgh. Still, as I arrive, the castle is magnificent and I enjoy it with a coffee and cake to rest the legs before the trip back.
The next day we enjoy a really tasty lunch out at the seemingly ever popular café / bothy at the Beal campsite and then it’s time to head out and north.
Scotland and Dunbar
Our next stop on the way to Edinburgh is Dunbar.
The campsite at Edinburgh was really popular and was totally booked for the weekend. It’s a bit cheaper to stay mid week and maybe the city will be a bit quieter????
Either way, we decide to stay out on the coast and book the club site in Dunbar. Not only are the views fabulous but there’s a Dunbar Parkrun on Saturday so we can collect another letter of the alphabet.
The weather is fantastic.
The warden explains the easiest way to walk out to town and we exclaim to him how beautiful it is here. He agrees but suggests that it’s not always like this. Apparently, the week before the wind was howling across site and the rain was coming in horizontally.
Taking advantage of the great weather, we follow the coastal trail along the golf course and into town. Dunbar has a cute seaside town feel to it and although there’s a few run down buildings, the feel of the little working harbour and town centre is charming. Although we can’t find a coffee on the harbour, we end up in a sunlit courtyard café for lunch. It’s so good we opt for tea and cake afterward before heading home.
On Saturday, we get our Parkrun in and whilst our times are not fabulous we reward ourselves with bacon and eggs when we get home. We meet a couple of people from the campsite at the start of the parkrun. It seems that there are a few people who take this pretty seriously and travel for weekends away just so they can run new events. One lady we spoke to at the start had run over 500 events!
Water, water everywhere……
Whilst travel has been idyllic, the problems with our fresh water are continuing to multiply in our water tank it would seem.
We drained and refilled the tank twice at Dunbar but the tea is still tasting off. I think we’re going to have to try something different at Edinburgh to get the tank clean.
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