Tales From The Road Less Travelled

Out into the West : Wanaka to Arthur’s Pass

Written by

Toby Denn

in

Wanaka was the first place we really noticed it. 

Another cute little town on the lake shore surrounded by mountains. Not as dramatic or vibrant as Queenstown and without isolated beauty of Glenorchy. 

Have we become numb to all this beauty?

It is still incredible here of course. 

The thing is, travelling through and living in the breathtaking landscapes and coastlines of the South Island for a couple of weeks now makes ‘Incredible’ kinda normal.

Yet there’s still a quiet voice that reminds us to take it all in. We’ve only got one more week here.

A mooch through town with a coffee is followed by a walk around the beach to find the willow in the lake. The obligatory Wanaka Tree photo and we decide to head on.

A solitary tree on a small island in a lake, with a person standing beside it. The scene features a cloudy sky and distant mountains.
Sally at That Wānaka Tree
A person in a grey sweatshirt and shorts stands beside a large tree near a lake, with mountains in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
The obligatory willow tree photo in Wānaka

Wanaka to Fox Glacier

Highway 6 takes us out alongside Lake Hawea and then joins Lake Wanaka. The drive is a classic South Island route of winding, wildly undulating lake side roads mixed with unfolding breathtaking vistas.

We’re both used to the rhythm now and settle comfortably back as the road unfolds.

A tranquil lake surrounded by hills under a moody sky with dark clouds and beams of light breaking through.
Lake Hāwea view

Accompanying the merry band of motorhome tourists, we dip in and out of the viewpoints along the way. Blue Pools and Fantail Falls are beautiful

The road then abruptly turns west out to the coast. It’s been a while since we saw the beach and we find it’s a welcome sight. We stop in at the small town of Haast. Re-caffeinated, we switch drivers and the road takes us up the coast.

Knight’s Point look out has amazing views up and down the rocky shore. It starts a debate in the van about whether we prefer mountains or coasts.

Just for now, the beach takes it.

A scenic view of a coastline featuring lush green hills, clear blue waters, and rocky outcrops under a bright sky.
Knight’s Point look out
A couple posing for a selfie with a coastal view in the background, featuring greenery and a blue sky.
Toby and Sally at the look out
A beach scene featuring wooden sticks arranged to spell 'NATANA', with a calm ocean and a clear blue sky in the background.
Hokitika Beach Front
A woman stands beside a Maui campervan on a coastal road, with a beach and ocean in the background, surrounded by tall grass and native plants under a clear blue sky.
Sally and Bernhardt on the drive out of Haast
A scenic beach with a sandy shoreline, scattered driftwood, and two people walking along the water's edge. RVs are parked nearby against a backdrop of hills under a clear blue sky with wispy clouds.
So much driftwood on the west coast
A smiling couple in sunglasses posing for a selfie on a beach with driftwood and vegetation in the background, holding a red tumbler.
Morning tea on the beach

Fox Glacier and Franz Josef

After a long days drive, we reach our camp spot in Fox Glacier. As an unexpected free treat in the evening, a local student takes us out into the forest to look for glow worms. He’s a brilliant guide and we see loads of them. (The photos we got are perhaps less inspired) 

A starry night sky filled with scattered bright stars against a dark background.
Glow worms….. honest…

Next day we roll the short distance across to Franz Josef. 

Covered in factor 50 and insect repellant, we walk the 6kms through the town and up to see the Glacier. It’s a lovely change of pace after a long days drive and we’re glad to stretch our legs. 

Climate change has accelerated the already retreating glaciers here to their doom. 

My brother showed me a photo he took of the glacier 20 years ago and it’s way smaller now. The information boards show images of the first tourists up here in the 1800’s and it’s safe to say they wouldn’t recognise it now.

Road sign indicating directions to Fox Glacier and Haast, with an additional sign for Franz Josef Glacier in both English and Māori.
Highway 6 up to Fox Glacier
A mountainous landscape with a prominent glacier at the peak, surrounded by rugged terrain and lush greenery in the foreground.
Franz Josef Glacier

Hokitika Gorge

There’s no rest for Bernhardt and the next day we’re off to Hokitika. As well as a campsite shower, we’re here to see Hokitika Gorge. Finding it takes us a bit out into the middle of nowhere, it’s an impressive sight and a lovely walk around the trail. 

A man smiling while standing by a river with turquoise water, surrounded by lush greenery in a forested area.
Toby at Hokitika Gorge

Arthur’s Pass 

Our final stop in the mountains is Arthur’s Pass.

The mountain pass was originally used by the Maori and formally mapped by Arthur Dobson in 1864. It links the west and east coasts of the South Island.

The road up is challenging and pretty spectacular to the top of the pass at 740m and there’s a rail link too. 

I suspect the thick forest and cliffs made it more of a challenge for Arthur when he walked it.

A weathered yellow sign displaying the words 'AVALANCHE CREEK' in bold black letters.

Today, the area is protected as Arthur’s Pass National Park. There’s some excellent walking up here and we’ve booked in with the Department of Conservation to stay at the dauntingly title, Avalanche Creek camp area. 

Even if you don’t do the longer trail walks, there’s plenty to see. We walk the Devils Punchbowl, some of the Bealey Spur track and reward ourselves with the largest ice creams either of us has ever eaten. We nearly ended up sharing them with a nosy Kea. 

Scenic view of a mountainous landscape with a winding road and tunnel entrance amidst lush greenery and mist.
Sketchy road up Arthur’s Pass
A man and a woman pose in front of a tall waterfall surrounded by lush greenery and rocky terrain, with blue skies above.
At the Devils Punchbowl, Arthur’s Pas
A close-up of a kea, a large parrot with a predominantly brown body and green wings, perched on a wooden railing, looking curiously at the camera.
One cheeky Kea

The camp area has a few guests and it’s pretty rustic here and we’re wrapped up with blankets as it’s definitely colder. 

We had, however, not completely appreciated how close we were to the railway. It’s used for tourists trains during the day and provides heavy freight access at night. I think there were 4 long trains that came through and somewhat ruined the wilderness vibe we were hoping for. 

Next time we start our last week on the South Island,

Hope to see you then,

Love, Sally and Toby

Comments

2 responses to “Out into the West : Wanaka to Arthur’s Pass”

  1. Barbara Skinner avatar
    Barbara Skinner

    What a great adventure you two are on! We’re loving the photos & your stories.

    Reply
    1. Toby Denn avatar
      Toby Denn

      Thank you. It’s been such a whirlwind of new sights and sounds. We loved it.

      Reply

Leave a Reply

More posts