A 6 week gap has appeared in our schedule. With Eurostar tickets clutched in our hand, well in a virtual wallet, we set off for the continent.
After a British summer full of sunshine, parties, music festivals and friends, we don’t have as much time as previous years but we’ll endeavour to make the most of it!
As might be obvious from the title, our destination this autumn is Germany and then Austria.
Specifically, we’re looking forward to checking out the Romantic Road, Castles, Mozart and Vienna.
A relaxing trip across France gives us chance to dust off plans we made a few years ago. Looking at the map, we realise that we’ll be crossing into Germany close to the Black forest.
This is too good an opportunity to miss.
Baden-Baden
We arrive at the spa town of Baden-Baden, which is traditionally the northern entry to the Black Forest drive.
The ‘stellplatz’ (German for Aire) is spacious, easy to reach and pretty empty. It’s only about an hours walk into town from here but sadly the weather forecast isn’t so welcoming.
After digging out all three of our raincoats from the bottom of the wardrobe we set off. (yes, Merlin has a rain coat too and although dogs in clothes can be a bit odd, she’s super cute in it).
The weather forecast is spot on. We wonder why we left the large, new and never used umbrella in the wardrobe.
Taking temporary shelter at the Trinkhalle, we find the beautiful arcade is today filled with a bustling flea market. A break in the rain gives us chance to leg it back to the van. Sadly we’ve missed out on the old town, spa’s and a doubtless a host of other things here in Baden-Baden but there’s always next time.
Our route south through the forest is on the famous B500. The undulating, winding road is a favourite of motorbikes and sports cars so we’re sure to annoy everyone as we trundle along in Beatrix.
Nevertheless, we’re looking forward to it. There’s that autumnal feel in the air and the trees are all starting to turn orange and yellow. It should be amazing.
B500 to Freudenstadt
The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry. And so it proved for us the next day.
Joining the B500 in Baden-Baden, we’re greeted by an increasing number of insistent yellow ‘Umleitung’ signs.
Undeterred we keep on going, even as the rest of traffic thins out. Eventually we’re the only ones on the road.
Somewhat unsurprisingly, we come to the point where the road is closed.
There’s a collection of orange clad workers and some locals by the barriers who laugh as we approach. Apparently they’ve been waiting for tourists to ignore all the warnings. Oops.
Sadly the road had closed that morning for resurfacing after a busy summer season. It would be shut for months.
Tails between our legs, we head back into town and this time follow the clearly sign posted diversion out to Freudenstadt.
The drive into the forest is still impressive. We pass through the forest of orange and yellow trees, their colourful leaves now carpeting the sides of the road. Around the next turn, the mood shifts. Suddenly towering pines loom on the steep hills on either side of us cloaked in mist and dark shadows. This is the land that inspired fairy tales like Hansel & Gretel and Snow White. You can feel the spirit.
The road to Triberg
We have a good night at Freudenstadt although to be honest we could have found more exciting places to stay overnight with a little more research.
Today we due to re-join the B500. On the way south to Triberg, we stop in to admire the worlds largest Cuckoo Clock. After watching The Third Man, I always thought that Cuckoo Clocks were invented in Switzerland but apparently they hail from this part of Germany. Who knew.
Parking in Triberg is a nightmare. We just weren’t expecting quite so many tourists and coaches this time of year. Pulling up and out of town, we do find space in a carpark halfway up the hill which is great. It gives us chance to take a quick walk out and see some of Germany’s longest waterfall.
Titisee
Tonight we fancy staying at one of the lakes that are scattered across this part of Baden-Württemberg. We choose Titisee and wow did we make a good choice.
After several driving days, we’re ready to chill for a few days and this location and campsite turn out to be perfect. We’re staying in the Stellplatz outside the main site but have use of the showers and there’s a tasty cafe/restaurant open too.
For our cycle tour around the lake, we get a day of fabulous blue skies and sunshine. Needless to say we forget to take any photos, sorry.
Although the next couple of days are cloudier, I do find my slice of Black Forest gateau.
Freiburg
It’s sad to leave this little gem but we decide to head to the nearby city of Freiburg.
The route out of the forest is almost all downhill with hairpin turns, amazing views and the road is an incredible drive. It’s easy to see why so many cars, motorhomes and coaches are heading up into the forest for the weekend.
Why are we heading to Freiburg? Well there’s a ParkRun here on Saturday morning and we can get our Germany badge. We both run really well, recording personal bests as well as taking part in a new country.
Rewarding ourselves with a trip into the old town we try the local delicacy, ‘Lange Rote’ from a super popular food truck in the busy market. It is indeed a long sausage!
Sunday brings a bit of drive as we’re heading for the top of the Romantic Road.
Thanks for reading and take care,
Sally, Toby and Merlin
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