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  • Abel Tasman National Park

    Abel Tasman National Park

    Abel Tasman National Park was one of the first places on our ‘must see’ list when we booked this trip. 

    After a year of planning, would it live up to the expectations? Especially as we’ve started noticing the leaves are beginning to change colour with the first signs of Autumn in the air.

    Reaching the campsite was a bit sketchy. 

    The evidence of a very wet summer was visible along the twisty, hilly road through the forest to Mārahau. Several small land slips are still partially blocking the route and in a couple of places the one lane of road has entirely slipped off the mountain.

    Emerging from the forest we arrive at Mārahau Beach Camp and are greeted by golden sands and a turquoise sea. We can feel the heat of the bright sun again and for a moment we mistakenly think we’ve been transported to the Caribbean. 

    Expectations have been exceeded. 

    Abel Tasman Coastal Track

    The Coastal Track is one of the reasons that Abel Tasman NP is so popular. 

    It runs the 60km along the entire coast of the park from Golden Bay to Mārahau. It’s possible to walk and camp the entire length. 

    Our plan is more modest. We’re hoping to use a water taxi, which are the only way to get about the national park, to take us up the coast to Anchorage. Then we’ll walk the track back to base.  

    As for our base, we’ve picked a great one in Mārahau. It’s only a couple of kilometers from the entrance to national park and is on a beautiful sandy bay. Conveniently, the water taxi’s go from just across the road, there’s a small shop and a tasty looking bistro pub.   

    The water taxi experience is unexpected and fantastic. We’re loaded up into the boat whilst it’s on dry land, on a trailer behind a tractor. Our captain then drives us down the road, into the sea, and then jumps out of the tractor and aboard the boat. 

    We get the typically succinct New Zealand safety briefing. “I’m your captain. This is basically a speed boat so sit down. You, at the back might get wet. Ok, let’s go.” And we’re off. 

    The boat ride first takes us to see Split Apple Rock and then up the coastline. The views are amazing. It gives us a totally different perspective to see the cliffs, forest covered mountains and the myriad of sandy coves from the sea. It feels fantastic to have the wind and spray in our faces as the boat bounces out across the sea. 

    Split Apple Rock with its two gods as gulls

    Disembarking our taxi is a wetter experience than getting on. 

    Somewhat unhelpfully, the captain informs us of this as we arrive at the beach. 

    “There’s no ladder so you’ll have to jump into the water” 

    Somewhat smugly, we’re prepared for this with wearing shorts and our wet/dry Tropic Feel trainers. Everyone else though is wearing trousers, walking boots with socks and they’re not terribly impressed at the news. Particularly those with young kids. No-one has a towel.

    A view from the track

    The walk back is pretty easy and mostly along the cliff tops. After some longer drives in the van, it feels great to be out walking amongst the unfamiliar sounds and smells of the forest. For lunch, we find a steep trail down to a quiet beach to enjoy our picnic and then clamber back up to the main track to carry on. Every so often the trees open up and give us a glimpse out over the islands of the bay beyond.

    A view from the track

    It’s a great hike and after 17 kilometers, we reach the bar bistro where we started. We decide we’ve earned refreshments. 

    Hooked

    When we arrived, the menu at Hooked caught our eye and made our mouths water. The highlight for us was chef’s fish special – Red Snapper with a Thai style chilli salad. 

    We decided we deserved dinner out too. 

    The food arrived and was even better than expected. Unfortunately, we were so hungry that there aren’t any photos to share. 

    Trust us though, if you’re in the area, it’s well recommended. 

    After two days at the park, we’ve got to be moving on. Our next stop is also on our must see list and somewhere Sally has been looking forward to visiting. 

    Thanks for reading,

    Sally and Toby

  • Out into the West : Wanaka to Arthur’s Pass

    Wanaka was the first place we really noticed it. 

    Another cute little town on the lake shore surrounded by mountains. Not as dramatic or vibrant as Queenstown and without isolated beauty of Glenorchy. 

    Have we become numb to all this beauty?

    It is still incredible here of course. 

    The thing is, travelling through and living in the breathtaking landscapes and coastlines of the South Island for a couple of weeks now makes ‘Incredible’ kinda normal.

    Yet there’s still a quiet voice that reminds us to take it all in. We’ve only got one more week here.

    A mooch through town with a coffee is followed by a walk around the beach to find the willow in the lake. The obligatory Wanaka Tree photo and we decide to head on.

    Wanaka to Fox Glacier

    Highway 6 takes us out alongside Lake Hawea and then joins Lake Wanaka. The drive is a classic South Island route of winding, wildly undulating lake side roads mixed with unfolding breathtaking vistas.

    We’re both used to the rhythm now and settle comfortably back as the road unfolds.

    Lake Hāwea view

    Accompanying the merry band of motorhome tourists, we dip in and out of the viewpoints along the way. Blue Pools and Fantail Falls are beautiful

    The road then abruptly turns west out to the coast. It’s been a while since we saw the beach and we find it’s a welcome sight. We stop in at the small town of Haast. Re-caffeinated, we switch drivers and the road takes us up the coast.

    Knight’s Point look out has amazing views up and down the rocky shore. It starts a debate in the van about whether we prefer mountains or coasts.

    Just for now, the beach takes it.

    Knight’s Point look out
    Toby and Sally at the look out

    Fox Glacier and Franz Josef

    After a long days drive, we reach our camp spot in Fox Glacier. As an unexpected free treat in the evening, a local student takes us out into the forest to look for glow worms. He’s a brilliant guide and we see loads of them. (The photos we got are perhaps less inspired) 

    Glow worms….. honest…

    Next day we roll the short distance across to Franz Josef. 

    Covered in factor 50 and insect repellant, we walk the 6kms through the town and up to see the Glacier. It’s a lovely change of pace after a long days drive and we’re glad to stretch our legs. 

    Climate change has accelerated the already retreating glaciers here to their doom. 

    My brother showed me a photo he took of the glacier 20 years ago and it’s way smaller now. The information boards show images of the first tourists up here in the 1800’s and it’s safe to say they wouldn’t recognise it now.

    Hokitika Gorge

    There’s no rest for Bernhardt and the next day we’re off to Hokitika. As well as a campsite shower, we’re here to see Hokitika Gorge. Finding it takes us a bit out into the middle of nowhere, it’s an impressive sight and a lovely walk around the trail. 

    Toby at Hokitika Gorge

    Arthur’s Pass 

    Our final stop in the mountains is Arthur’s Pass.

    The mountain pass was originally used by the Maori and formally mapped by Arthur Dobson in 1864. It links the west and east coasts of the South Island.

    The road up is challenging and pretty spectacular to the top of the pass at 740m and there’s a rail link too. 

    I suspect the thick forest and cliffs made it more of a challenge for Arthur when he walked it.

    Today, the area is protected as Arthur’s Pass National Park. There’s some excellent walking up here and we’ve booked in with the Department of Conservation to stay at the dauntingly title, Avalanche Creek camp area. 

    Even if you don’t do the longer trail walks, there’s plenty to see. We walk the Devils Punchbowl, some of the Bealey Spur track and reward ourselves with the largest ice creams either of us has ever eaten. We nearly ended up sharing them with a nosy Kea. 

    The camp area has a few guests and it’s pretty rustic here and we’re wrapped up with blankets as it’s definitely colder. 

    We had, however, not completely appreciated how close we were to the railway. It’s used for tourists trains during the day and provides heavy freight access at night. I think there were 4 long trains that came through and somewhat ruined the wilderness vibe we were hoping for. 

    Next time we start our last week on the South Island,

    Hope to see you then,

    Love, Sally and Toby

  • Queenstown and beyond

    Famous as the home of high octane thrills and extreme sports, we find Queenstown is full of surprises too. 

    We’re staying in Frankton and have a park up right on Lake Wakatipu. One of the most beautiful spots and so it was worth paying the lake view premium. 

    It’s a Friday afternoon, the sky is blue and the sun is hot and we take a wander around the lake. We end up at Altitude Brewery, which turns out to be a full on apres ski bar…. Complete with chairlift seating and skis on the ceiling. It’s all a bit surreal as we’re sitting outside in shorts and teeshirts. 

    We raise a glass to our friends who we missed this season in Montgenèvre. Cheers. 

    The local beer and food trucks are brilliant. Altitude Brewing is highly recommended if your here in Summer, or Winter. 

    Sally and Toby at Altitude Brewing

    Park Running

    We found out that there’s a ParkRun in Queenstown and we’re keen to add a New Zealand event and a ‘Q’ to our log. We were a bit surprised though that ParkRuns start at 08:00 not 09:00! 

    Driving to Queenstown Gardens early in the morning there is a constant stream of coaches and mini-buses going the opposite direction. Milford Sound will be busy today!

    The town itself though is like a ghost town. I guess those who haven’t left on the coaches are sensibly still in bed.  

    A quiet trickle of Park Runners appear from the early morning mist and numbers build until there’s a small pool of us gathered for the 8 o’clock start. Almost everyone is a tourist here! 

    We clock terrible times but when we get back to the lake we’re happy and energised as always after an early workout. 

    In the afternoon, we’re back in Queenstown and we’re on a mission. 

    By now, the town is buzzing and it’s not just the jet boats and helicopter tours. The sun’s out and there’s a busy market in the harbour. People are mooching about, filling up the patio bars and lying out on the grass with a soundtrack of live music from buskers.

    After a brief alcoholic diversion, our objective is The Fergburger

    Visiting Fergburger is one of things on our New Zealand To Do list having been recommended by several people. After the obligatory pilgrimage queue, we’re not disappointed when the food arrives. Sally declares it to be the best burger she’s ever had!

    High praise indeed. 

    Jet Boats

    Before we came out to NZ, we decided that our Bungee Jumping days are behind us and driving past the bridge that AJ Hackett set up the first permanent bungee jump from reassures us we made a good decision. 

    We are however going to try out Jet Boats. 

    Jet boats are essentially very large engines connected to small, nimble and unstable boats. Propulsion comes from squirting water out of the back rather than propellers and so the boats can navigate very shallow rivers. This suits the erratic mountain rivers of the area.

    A little research led us to Shotover Jet Boats. It’s a great choice.

    The company has access to an incredibly beautiful part of the Shotover River, above Queenstown. Controlled access it turns out is important as the boats can do 90 km/h. You wouldn’t want to meet one coming the other way. 

    It’s insanely good fun and our captain / race driver, Misuzu, is brilliant.

    Glenorchy   

    If you follow the road west you’ll reach Glenorchy, eventually.

    The road in question, snakes along Lake Wakatipu, trying to cling to the side of the mountain. It’s not always successful so it’s a slow drive. It reminds us of the drive on the A82 beside Loch Lomond.

    Approaching Glenorchy, the view opens up to give you the full view of the mountains at the top of the lake. Checking the map shows us we’re actually much closer to Milford Sound here than when we stayed at Te Anau. 

    It’s utterly beautiful and really remote. It wouldn’t take much weather to be completely isolated. 

    Walking and back country skiing must be epic here. 

    Sally at Glenorcy

    The town is sort of charming too with a ‘the road ends here’ feel.

    There are a few tourist stops, some cafe’s and bars plus, of course, the ubiquitous helicopter tours. But it’s mid-season now and most places are closed.

    The next day, our enthusiasm to head further up the valley on foot to find more Lord of Rings locations is dampened by low clouds and drizzle. 

    Instead, we opt to stock up with a couple of Fairlie Pies from Mrs Wooleys General Store and set our course north.

    Thanks for reading, 

    Sally and Toby

    Pie Rating : 7 out of 10. Good but ‘Miles Better Pies’ is still our favourite.  

    Other useful links

    Driftaway Camping

  • Milford Sound

    Te Anau

    We arrive at Te Anau to blue skies and a hot sun. 

    The town of Te Anau, and our campsite for the night, is right on a lake of the same name. As we take a walk to check things out, the first thing we notice is the sea planes and helicopters. Helicopters will be a feature of our lives over the next couple of weeks. 

    We chose Te Anau as our gateway to see the famous Milford Sound. So it would seem, did everyone else. 

    Milford Sound is one of New Zealand’s top experiences. Indeed, in 2008 it was voted as the best tourist destination in the world by travelers.

    To keep ahead of the crowds, we got up at 6, in the dark, to be on the road by 7.

    By happy coincidence, 7 o’clock is also when Miles Better Pies opens. We’d heard that pies are a pretty big deal in New Zealand and everyone we’ve talked to seems really proud of this. 

    Excited to try NZ pies for ourselves, we went for two Steak and Cheese. However, whilst I was carefully carrying them out to the van, they were so warm and smelled so delicious that I went back for a Bacon and Egg Pie to supplement my meagre ‘first breakfast’. 

    It was the right choice. 

    Miles better pies

    Milford Sound

    The road to Milford Sound is pretty spectacular. If you had a motorbike or sports car, and could avoid all the motorhomes, it would be one of the best drives too.

    We stop frequently on the way down. Notably at Mistletoe Lake, which we enjoyed as the sun rose, then Eglington Flats and Mirror Lake. We got there before they were too busy and at just the right time of day. They were all stunning. 

    Sally at Mistletoe Lake
    Eglington Valley
    Mirror Lake

    It’s a slightly hairy approach road to the long, single file tunnel that has been roughly cut through the cliffs but that’s nothing compared to what’s awaiting us on the other side. 

    The landscape seems to change from normally, rugged New Zealand to something prehistoric looking. Seriously, we wouldn’t have been surprised to see dinosaurs in the forests. The road winds very steeply downhill towards the sea.

    Stopping to let some cars pass, we walk up to The Chasm. It seems to have been deemed so dangerous that the bridge at the end is closed. Even if we’d been able to walk on the insubstantial looking bridge over the black void below filled with the sound of angry water, I’m not sure we would have.

    Milford Sound is amazing. It’s just incredible. Our photos and writing just simply won’t do it justice. If you have the chance, you should definitely visit. 

    We jump on the first available Milford Sound tour and are pleased to find ourselves on a smaller boat that takes us out for two hours. Touring up and down the sound we get as far as the Tasman Sea. It’s a great experience and we enjoy an amazing day. 

    Milford Sound


    The drive back is fun too and it’s been a full day by the time we get to Te Anau.

    To our happy surprise, the pharmacy recommended ‘sand fly repellant’ has done a fair job….. we should have put that on the next day too in hindsight… but that’s a tale for another time.

    Thanks for reading,

    Sally and Toby

    Oh, and the pies were amazing!

    Milford Sound

    Milford Sound maybe on of the most popular tourist spots in New Zealand but it’s also one of the wettest.

    It has a dual name, being called Piopiotahi by the Maori and later named by a welsh settler after his home town of` Milford Haven.

    It turns out we got lucky with a sunny day to visit. It typically rains here more than 180 days of the year. And when it rains it really comes down too. The average monthly rainfall is more than half a meter.

    The waterfalls may have been less dramatic but we’ll take our sunny day.

  • Heading south from Oamaru to Dunedin

    Sunrise over the Southern Ocean

    Today finds us at a beach front park up, just south of Dunedin. 

    We’ve discovered these things called ‘Freedom Camping’ spots. They’re places that self contained vans are allowed to stay for a day or two free of charge. Coming from the regulated and often vanlife un-friendly UK, it seems amazing to us that New Zealand encourage people to do this. 

    It’s excellent.

    Happily, our experience of New Zealand travel so far is that people readily follow the simple rules just fine. In the evening, a few vans flock together and then once the sun rises they quietly resume their journey. 

    I guess we’ll find that there are places where this is a challenge. For example, space is at a premium in the super popular national parks. We’ve heard from fellow travellers that there are some pretty hefty fines (£200-£400) if you stop in places that aren’t approved. 

    That’s a consideration for future Sally and Toby though.. 

    For tonight we stay for free, in one of the most incredible locations we’ve ever been. 

    Looking out over the ocean, it struck me that if I set off swimming on the same latitude the next land I’d reach is Chile. Strangely, when we visit Milford Sound, on the other side of the country, if I did the same thing the first land I’d reach would be Argentina.  

    There’s not too much land this far south.

    For tonight though, the little spot we found is as close to perfect as we could want. 

    Thanks for reading as always, watch this space for the next part of our New Zealand adventure and remember to subscribe if you want to get our blogs as they are posted.

    Toby and Sally

    Sunrise at Kuri Bush

    Oamaru

    We journeyed south along Highway 1 from Mount Sunday. Originally, we’d planned to go up to Lake Tekapo but the weather wasn’t great so we decided to cut the driving and have a day to take stock in Oamaru.

    The driving is epic.

    This might be a highway but it’s certainly not a boring motorway. The road winds its way up and around the much more hilly terrain than we’d expected. And right beside the ocean. It’s such a treat.

    Oamaru, we find, is a charming little town on the ocean and our site was in the botanical gardens which were also beautiful. The European history dates from the 1800’s and is nice but the Maori history goes back nearly a thousand years. We’re keen to learn more about this as we travel.

    There’s are a colony of small blue penguins that live at the end of the harbour but apparently they only come back after dark. We missed them but did find a replica on the walk and also our first sight of seals!

    Dunedin

    Dunedin is the biggest city we’ve really seen in New Zealand as we didn’t really give Christchurch a chance.

    We’re a bit taken a back as we wind our way through the suburbs toward the old city centre. To our surprise, we find it’s named after Edinburgh and there’s a strong Scottish connection with the place names all around here.

    We park by the old railway station, which is striking and grab lunch in one of the cafes nearby. To be honest, we’re not wowed by the cities and are keener to head out to the solitude of the coast again.

  • Highway 94 to Milford Sound

    Mirror Lake
    Milford Sound Waterfall
    Milford Sound

  • Akaroa to Mount Sunday

    We might be seasoned motorhomers but it appears that we’ve got a lot to learn about vanlife.

    The van, which we’ve newly christened Bernhardt, is going to take some getting used to. 

    The kitchen is small. We tried a two pot dinner but to be honest a one potter would be easier. The sink is not meant for more than washing up a couple of mugs. This, it turns out, is convenient as the water only heats to luke warm. We’re not brave enough to consider the shower yet. 

    Making up a bed each night is somewhat of a pain, not least because only one person can do anything at any one time. The other person has to sit like a lemon, watching on. 

    We learned on the first night that it’s best if ‘The Watcher’ doesn’t offer constructive criticism. 

    We’ll adapt and get used to it all of course.

    The compromise in space is made up for with ease of driving and knowing we can get anywhere with Bernhardt. 

    I think we’ll bond on our travels and he’ll be an epic road-trip companion. 

    Mount Sunday

    Today we begin a New Zealand quest to see some of the Lord of the Rings filming locations. Close by is Mount Sunday which was Edoras in the second movie.

    As we head inland the landscape is dramatic. We’re not far from Mount Cook National Park and it is breathtakingly beautiful.   

    View out from Mount Sunday

    As the traffic thins, the roads narrow and then disappear completely. The last 23kms is on a washboard, gravel track.

    This doesn’t seem to phase the locals who hoon past in pick up trucks but it’s pretty bouncy and crashy for Bernhardt so takes us an hour. 

    The trail finishes at Mount Sunday.

    There’s a hike to the summit that takes 90 minutes or so. It’s a stunning location. 

    Mount Potts camping

    Thankfully our campsite for the night is only 4km back up the road at Mount Potts Lodge.

    It’s a beautiful little spot and we’re warmly greeted. We park up in the paddock by ourselves for the night with views across the valley watching the sun go down with a well earned glass of wine.

    The weather has been amazing and our host tells us this is the best day they’ve had this year. Apparently there’ll be more snow in the next few days for the higher mountains that surround the lodge.

    View from Mount Potts at dawn

    A beautiful place and incredibly isolated out here. 

    With rain forecast, our next destination is south and along the coast to Oamaru and Dunedin. 

    Thanks for reading,

    Sally and Toby

  • Our first day in New Zealand

    Kia Ora.

    We’ve arrived in New Zealand. 

    The flights were long but we’re grateful to have made it here without issue. For our first night we’ve checked into the airport hotel for hot showers and a bed of fresh white linen.

    Our first day however is all about tasks. Getting stuff done!

    Arriving in Christchurch, New Zealand

    First task. Get up, get breakfast. Sounds easy but jet lagged, we rise like a pair of lazy teenagers and bleary eyed, make it to breakfast. For reasons not clear to me, this is our 3rd breakfast in the last 24 hours.

    There’s no time to dwell on this as we need to get on.

    Task 2. Pick up the new wheels.

    Sally suggests we aim to catch 09:15 shuttle bus and this turns out to be a great idea. It takes about an hour to get checked in and to wait to be shown our new home. By the time we’re ready to leave, the check in queue is 10 deep. Quietly I’d been hoping we’d lie in a bit and catch the 10:15 bus. Note to self, listen to your wife. 

    There’s no time for us to gloat.

    It’s on to Task 3. Provisioning. 

    On the way over, the shuttle bus driver had helpfully pre-empted our question and pointed out the closest supermarket. I can only assume he gets a kick back as when we arrive at Woolworths, the car park is chock a block with rental vans. 

    Wandering down the aisles, we meet all the couples who were in front of us at the hire place.   

    Because putting away our clothes and bags is not until task 5, we chuck the food on top of the everything in the back of the van, which now resembles a lazy teenagers bedroom.

    Task 4 is to find shelter. We’ve booked a campsite for our first night so we can charge up the batteries and figure everything in our new home out. 

    We’re staying in Akaroa. 

    Vanlife in New Zealand

    The drive out is stunning and unexpectedly beautiful and hilly. We’re pleased we have a smaller van to deal with the terrain. We cross our fingers that the rest of our trip is as amazing and that we’ve not happened upon the best first. 

    Akaroa town has a low key, chilled vibe and it was colonised by the French in 1840. We walk the old town along the harbour front.  

    After a busy day, rather than rushing task 5 we add in task 4.5. Stop and enjoy a beer in the afternoon sun.

    Cheers, Sally and Toby

    Home for the next 6 weeks
    Drinks in Akaroa

  • Shock absorber upgrade : Marquart

    Since we first drove Beatrix on the hairpin roads of the Alps, there’s been something I wanted to do. Anything to improve the suspension and handling.

    Why?

    Beatrix has air suspension to support the rear but the front suspension is provided by torsion bars. It’s a bit ‘agricultural’ and easily overwhelmed by the weight of the vehicle.

    The problem is that the suspension is designed for a van workload. That means some journeys will be fully loaded but that others will be unloaded. In motorhome mode, we’re fully loaded up to our plated maximum of 6700kgs almost all the time.

    We had previously looked at upgrading to full air suspension. Lots of these vehicles are fitted with the VB system, which from research appears to the Rolls Royce solution. Sadly, the overall cost we’ve had quoted was about £9500. For a vehicle of Beatrix’s age and value it just didn’t make sense.

    Then I came across Marquart Dampers in Germany.

    Home

    They produce heavy duty shock absorbers for cars, motorhomes and trucks.

    For motorhomes, they’re heavier duty than the factory supplied units and given ours have already provided 18 years of service, upgrading them seemed like a cost effective way to try to improve Beatrix’s boat-like handling.

    We opted to install them in Germany, at the Marquart facility in Loningen.

    Installation

    We arrived the day before our appointment and stayed over in the dedicated motorhome space that they have.

    Next morning, we took Beatrix into the workshop as planned and the technician walked me through the installation process.

    We were having the front and rear dampers replaced.

    Beatrix is an older lady and I was concerned that the guys might complain or not want to work to remove the older, rusty parts but it was no problem. They explained what can happen on older vehicle installations and what they might need to do to get the old parts out.

    There are three ratings of damper available and they recommended the medium level of damper, which is what they usually fit to these type of motorhomes.

    Installation did take a few hours and removing the rear dampers did indeed prove a bit tricky but the technician treated it like a challenge and came over to show me how he’d been able to get them out.

    Does it make a difference?

    Yes.

    I thought the test drive might be a bit like doing a wine tasting in the way that I wouldn’t be able to feel any difference. Thankfully it wasn’t.

    The difference was immediately clear and the handling significantly better.

    Despite the immediate improvements, it’s as we’ve driven more miles that the improvements have become really obvious.

    The massive body roll we used to get entering corners has gone and I’ve noticed that simple things like slip roads that I’m able to take at 10-15 mph higher. That’s a really big improvement for us.

    Along with this improvement has come an increase in my confidence.

    Lower speed handling’s been improved too and whilst we don’t exactly soak up the potholes of UK roads, the performance is much, much better.

    Recommendation and costs

    Would I recommend the Marquart Damper upgrade. Yes. Without a doubt.

    I’d love VB air suspension too but it’s had to imagine that would make as bigger change as the Marquart dampers have done.

    For our 2008 Iveco Daily 65C18, they cost us just under £1000 fitted.

    How do I get them?

    The Marquart website is linked to this post.

    It’s easy to make an appointment to have the dampers fitted by Marquart in Germany. Alternatively they quote to ship the parts to the UK.

  • Stiffkey, Norfolk

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